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France to tax ultra-fast fashion sold online, phased increases through 2030 to curb waste and boost sustainable e‑commerce practices.
France has begun charging levies on ultra-fast fashion items sold via e-commerce platforms, the government announced after a law passed in June aimed at regulating major online retailers. The measure, which took effect on Tuesday, targets high-volume, low-cost clothing imports and sets per-item fees that vary by product and repairability.
Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion classification depends on two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. Products are scored on both standards and assigned fees on a graduated scale.
For 2026, the law establishes charges ranging from €0.50 for underwear to €2 for T-shirts, €9 for jeans and €12 for jackets. The per-item levy could rise to as much as €19.50 by 2030, subject to a cap equal to 50% of the product’s pre-tax price.
French minister Mathieu Lefevre described the move as addressing the “harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion” on the environment and the economy. China’s commerce ministry criticized the law as discriminatory and potentially a breach of World Trade Organization rules.
The measure will not apply to certain retailers such as H&M or Zara, according to Lefevre’s office. Companies named in coverage of ultra-fast fashion include Shein, Temu and AliExpress; Shein has warned the policy could worsen French consumers’ purchasing power, while Temu said it acknowledges environmental concerns and characterizes itself as a marketplace rather than a manufacturer.
The legislation defines ultra-fast fashion by market volume and repair-cost ratio and imposes tiered per-item levies that escalate through 2030. Official statements cite environmental and economic harms; China’s commerce ministry has objected on trade grounds. Specific annual fee levels for 2026 and a cap at 50% of pre-tax price are set in the law.
Kaynak: BBC